Aloha from Bologna

First impressions - this is a rough and tumble town, the brick and stonework that everyone talks about is lovely (not necessarily worth a trip specifically to see it) and so far, we haven't found the "market district" that has become the stuff of culinary legends. What this place seems to really be about is Shopping, with a capital "S." If you are a shopper - a shopaholic really - this is the place for you. I have never seen such a concentration of designer-to-discount stores in so small an area. It is truly astounding!

In fairness to Bologna, we're on our way to the "market district" this morning and it may (we hope) turn out to be everything we'd heard it is. Also in fairness, we did have an excellent dinner last night at a restaurant outside the city limits called Al Cambio. Bologna is the culinary center of this region - Emilia-Romanga - and is most famous for Bolognese sauce (duh!) which they call simply ragu. And also for tortellini in all its various sizes with all its various names. Wanda most wanted to try tortellini en brodo and she had it last night - it was fabulous. I had handmade tagliolini with a sauce of creamy, tart Pecorino with some diced zucchini and red bell pepper - also divine. As I said, we are off to see (find!) the artisanal wizards of Bologna in a little while.

One unexpected and delightful thing happened yesterday. I did not know that one of my favorite artists - Giorgio Morandi - is also Bologna's favorite artist son. He was born here in 1890 and rarely left Italy during his lifetime; he died in 1964. Museo Morandi - which occupies one floor in the large civic buildings' complex in the center of town - houses a large and wondrous collection which was put together by the artist's sister. I was thrilled to be able to see it. I saw a large show of his work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC last year but, frankly, I thought the installation left quite a bit to be desired. Here, he is the star. If you like quiet, contemplative modern art, please do a bit of reading about Giorgio Morandi and look at his work. It's well worth it. Or, simply click here http://www.museomorandi.it/english/sec_pag.htm